12 November 2009

Bazaar Time

















































































You just knew I was going to end with a bang didn't you?

Such a fantastic afternoon at the Bazaar.  Incredible to think that this town sat along the fabled Silk Road and has served as an active market town for centuries.

We met some of the most wonderful and friendly people we have yet met in Kazakhstan, here this afternoon.  Of course not everyone welcomed the camera, but by and large, the sellers were very curious and wanted to see their pictures on the back of the camera.  Sure makes me wish I had a small printer with me.  We will definitely try and head back before we leave.

I love markets like these.  There is so much vitality and rawness to it all.

I think that it is a wonderful thing for Tougy to be exposed to as well.  We stopped and took a long look at a pile of stomach lining and talked about what it was and then watched women stuff all sorts of bits and parts into the large sausage, and then we ogled at the feet and talked about to which animal they had been attached.

The Bazaar really had a bit of everything as I tried to represent, though I left out the clothes which hold little genuine fascination.  Absent however were the short skirts and stiletto heels, as heavy woolens and flat heeled boots reign supreme with these working women.

I find it interesting/telling that when asked about interesting things to see and do here in Shymkent, our translator could not think of anything apart from the Mega Mall.  Even when asked about the Bazaars, he mostly dismissed them saying they were old and dirty and had lots of flies.

Our time here in Shymkent is so very different than our time in Astana in 2007.  There we ate out after nearly every visit to the Baby House with our translator trying restaurant after restaurant and talking about all sorts of things ranging from politics to religion, to family.

Here in Shymkent we have yet to spend any time with any of our in-country team apart from going to and from the baby house, and signing legal documents at the office.  They know absolutely nothing of us nor we of them.  The one person with whom we can communicate directly, out translator Zhenia can best be described as pleasant.  Dull, robotic, disinterested, but pleasant.

Our coordinator here, Farida, is all about business, though it is not exactly clear what that business is.  Like Zhenia, she is not rude  nor discourteous, but seems to have little time for us nor interest in our process apart from making it happen.  Of the hour or so that we have spent in her presence, the bulk of that was to sign documents.

Our driver Nurshai is the one who really seems to be the interesting one, though unfortunately we cannot communicate directly with her.  It is she that seems connected at the baby house, and it is she who fields our questions about Nurai and finds out details for us about her beginnings and present life in the Baby House.

It isn't that I lament the lost opportunity to make life long friends as much as I am surprised that there isn't more anima within these people, more of a spark of interest within what they are doing and whom they are doing it for.

You get the sense in asking questions about the local area, or details about the baby house that they have never been asked such questions before when in fact it must be about all they are asked by the families with which they directly work.

Our time here in Shymkent is already drawing to a close.  We have now completed our 14 day bonding period and should find out tomorrow the date for our court appearance to petition to adopt Nurai.  It is presumed that it will be late next week, and that being the case, we will in fact make a trip up to Astana to visit Tougy's baby House and to see some familiar sights with her before heading home.

She is excited, as are we all, to get back to Maine.  Yes of course it will be difficult and frustrating to have to leave Nurai behind for such a lengthy time, but that it will be such a long time only reinforces our decision to return home.  I honestly cannot imagine doing a Kaz adoption in one trip the way the timeline seems to be giving the protracted amount of time required on the back end of court.

It used to be that you had court, you waited through the 15 day appeal period for the adoption to be official, then you had your 'Gotcha Day' wherein you brought your child out of the Baby House and began a 7-14 day paper-chase clearing through Almaty and heading home.

Now that Gotcha Day may be followed with between 4-6 weeks of in-country paper-chasing and waiting, how many will stay through that - especially in winter?  Not us.  Not this time.

The week has been a good one apart from the fact that all three of us got a stomach bug on consecutive nights, beginning with KJ Sunday night, then Tougy Monday, and finally me on Tuesday.  KJ had it the worst, we felt worst for Tougy, and I was the worst at feeling sick.

As a result of all of that, on Tuesday, I visited Nurai alone and Wednesday KJ visited alone.  Though I was sad that KJ and Tougy did not get to visit on Tuesday, it was nice to be there all by myself with Nurai, and not to feel like we were playing in a human 'shuffle the tiles' game as we visited in our penalty box.

As far as photos of Nurai go, it was understandably a slow week for that as well.  Apart from the general inability to remain inspired given our repressive enclosure, that two of the visits were solo also detracted from the available pool of visual intrigue.  But tomorrow is another day, and certainly this afternoon's spiritual rousting will help get that feeling back again.  

Take Care  


P.S. - In the interest of looking at prices, the exchange rate since we have been here has held steady at 150 tenge = $1.00, and most things are sold per kilogram, so therefor 2.2 pounds.          
      






18 comments:

Lou Ann said...

I took pictures of some of the amazing people I saw in the market while adopting my daughter in Aktau and then had some printed up while I was there. It was so much fun to present them to them the next week. I had our interpreter along and when I gave a picture to one older lady of herself she asked who the woman in the picture was. It was priceless.

Glad you have been enjoying your time in Kaz and congratulations on your seconding Kaz Princess.

Lou Ann
Mom to Lexie, Princess of Aktau Kaz

Jstar said...

That brings back so many wonderful Kaz memories - I'm so glad you posted these pictures!

kitzkazventure said...

What great pictures of the market.....oh man, the candy bins. Loved that pick your own candy! Luckily, we discovered that at the end of our trip not the beginning! ;) You should make a photo book out of some of your Kaz shots and sell them for two hearts or something. I would totally buy one as we did not get the same kinds of shots. Our town was very camera shy. But your pics remind me SO much of our market in Zhez. Very cool! Hope court comes quick and that Astana is a fun Journey!

Kelly and Sne said...

What wonderful photos - you brought back great memories. I, too, love the sights and sounds and even smells of the outdoor markets. I think the locals are somewhat embarassed by the "crudeness" of them compared to the more modern grocery stores. But that is their appeal. And that wonderful bread! Yum!

It is interesting the attitude of the staff there. Too bad, actually, for all involved. While I do understand that culturally, these people take their work very seriously and that many are wary of becoming too close to Americans (they say that we are superficially friendly), I would think that they would be proud to show off their culture and town in any case.

I hear you on the timelines. It breaks my heart to think that we won't be able to spend the entire time in country with our Little like we did with Miras. The time line is becoming much like the Russian time line and we shied away from Russia for that very reason. At the very least we plan on spending a couple of weeks at the tail end too to re-bond and be the ones to take the child from the only home she's known so far.

Hope everybody is feeling better. Not fun at all so far away from home.

Rob and Donalee said...

We loved the Bazaar in Shymkent! You have some wonderful pictures. It was fun for us to see the vast differences in the city of the modern Mega Mall and the old style Bazaar!
Hope you are all starting to feel better. Enjoy your time in Astana!

Regina said...

The bizarre bazaar is the best! The "vitality and rawness" of it, as you said, are so human and real. I love the photos of the older folks -- they have so much character in their faces.

It is sad that your team is cold and disinterested. What a lost opportunity for both sides. We had a mixed bag with our team, but they had been doing adoptions a long time. We are still in touch with one of our interpreters, which is nice.

I hope everyone's tummies are settled and you've all got your energy back. I imagine the homesickness really kicks in when you're not well.

The timeline really does stink, and it's not in the best interest of the children, which is the most baffling part. But taking two trips does give you the opportunity to prepare a little more for your new little Bounder, now that you know exactly who she is.

Steve, your photos are always such a pleasure, even if you get bored with being in the same tiny environment. The beautiful and fascinating subject matter (3 gorgeous girls) combined with your skills never disappoints. I hope you get your mojo working soon or there will surely be a revolt!

Diana said...

I so love Kazakhstan. I so miss Kazakhstan. Till we return (in a few months we hope)I am able to drink in as much of the culture as I can through wonderful people like you.

Thank You

Gail Morrison/GAIA said...

Loved your Bazaar photos!!! Hope you bought from some of the vendors: eggs & bread at least. Are those fresh dates in the big bag? And orange shoestring ??
I enlarged every shot to get a better look. Would have loved a currency exchange to know what things cost.
Your people photos always excel and my favorite 2 are of the butcher framed by his cuts of meat and the old woman engaged in selling eggs to the teens.
After a bout of stomach sickness, I'm surprised you could look at the bazaar with such enthusiasm. You are ALL amazing. Looking forward to the next post.

Love and hugs.

Stephanie and Gary said...

Steve, what beautiful travel images -- I loved the one of the woman with the green eyes. How did she allow you take the photo - what did you do/say to get the close ups?
I don't know when we are traveling dear Morrison family - will we meet? I sure hope so ....
steph

marsrob said...

SUCKS that you've all been so sick and that the timeline is so insane now. But understandable that you'll return home. Cannot wait for your date!

And the bazarre looks EXACTLY like Semey's. Made me nostalgic. Seriously, one of the most amazing places I've ever been in my whole life. Glad you had a chance to visit there. Unlike anything else.

Love Kaz. Love you all.

Anonymous said...

wondeful, wonderful art through photos and words. Thank you. You satiate our "wonderings" ... what are they doing now? ... what are they seeing? ... how are they? ... what decisions are they having to make now? and then a blog entry comes and all of those questions get resolved. We do thank you with grateful hearts.mormor & morfar

Unknown said...

So sorry you all suffered a bite of the bug. Our coordinator told us to drink a shot of vodka a day to keep away any illnesses. (-:

Love the market pictures. The markets were some of our favorite outings while in Kazakhstan. Enough so that we got to sort of know some of the vendors.

Thinking of you all.

Baby Kaz Moore said...

Hi, you're right, trips one and two were so different for me, too. I'm forcing myself to think of the positive things and not dwell on the negative ones.

Maybe when you're in the Astana Babyhouse you could see "Sabina". Everyone knows here. Or at least send her good thoughts from her mama.

Take care, all my best, Susan

PS To KJ, are you walking 60 miles in Kaz???? (smile) Amazing to think that you, Jen M, Sara and I are all in the midst of our second adoptions and Lori and Stacy are on the second journeys, as well. What a blessing.

Allison said...

Great pictures of the bazaar. The bread looks awesome. I would have loved to hear your converations with Tougy!

We walked to the baby home each day during our stay in Kaz and became very familiar with several local families along our route. We took some wonderful picture of them and were able to find a place to print them out. Everytime they saw us coming they would come out of their homes with different family memebers to pose. We remember them fondly.

Looking forwad to the next installment :)

Allison

Andrea said...

Oh, I love me some bazaar! GREAT pictures, as always. I know what you mean about the staff. Dad and I felt that way in Almaty on trip 2. Here we were cooing over our most prized new family member and they seemed to not even notice there was a baby around. I guess it's not their job to go bananas over our kids, but in this kind of process a wee bit of personal connection and maybe even a dose of warm and fuzziness just makes the whole process more pleasant.

I am excited for you to come home, because it will mean that you are that much closer to bringing Nurai home. I am thinking of you here in NH, where I have been awake since 4:30a.m. for no reason. Anelya is asleep and my jet lag is gone. Note to self... go to sleep!

Best wishes,
Andrea

MollyB said...

Hey guys! Thanks so much for posting these amazing photos. It is a wonderful opportunity for me to see some amazing things I will more than likely not see with my own eyes. It is so great to see all of your smiling faces as well! Take care, and hopefully we'll see you soon!

Trudi said...

LOVE the market. It looked wonderful. I would love to go there and to buy and to have a kitchen to cook in. My fave thing.
Enjoy the time you have left!

CamelsNDragons said...

I would agree about Zhenia and Farida. It became my project to find the most bizarre question I could ask him about Kazakh life.
Farida is one of the most professional business women I have ever come across and will get the job done. Did you try the young people at the English Center. They are wonderful and will tell you anything you ever wanted to know and make great tour guides. I miss the Babushkas above you in the apartment and the children in the "playground"-a few can speak English. It helped to know very basic Russian and to use it despite my embarassment. I met and enjoyed many people that way. The more questions I asked people about their lives and Kazakhstan the more open they became. Maybe they just sensed my genuine curiousity and appreciation of Kazakh life. Farida did invite me to her nieces wedding and some family events. What I regret most is not asking more questions about our daughter's life in the baby house. I should have pushed harder on that but did not want to offend. Love the pictures!