14 November 2009

Turkestan - the country that isn't.



Today's field trip took us north and west of Shymkent a bit more than 100 miles to the town of Turkestan where the impressive Mausoleum of Khodja Ahmed Yassaui was commisioned by Timur, or Tamerlane as he is more commonly known in the west.  Construction began in 1399, but when Timur died six years later, work on the project ceased, and the building remains unfinished to this day.

Yassaui was a Sufi mystic who lived in the early 1100's and, without wanting to plagiarize my guide book nor make up something that is perhaps incorrect, I'll just say that he helped bring Islam to Central Asia.



Of course after Tamerlane commissioned the mausoleum to be built on such a grand scale, the town and region took on greater importance.  It is now a most important pilgrimage site and draws a great many pilgrims each year.

Because of its importance within Islam, the area surrounding the mausoleum has become the burial place for a great many former rulers and military leaders and their families.  This mausoleum from the 15th century was built for the remains of Rabi'i Sultan Begum.  (don't ask me who she is, this isn't a history lesson, these are photographs, just roll with it.) 

Lots of Islamic design and architecture really resonates with me.  I appreciate the symmetry, the robustness, the graceful arches, and the calculated engineering that such structures exhibit.



Details around the dome of the Begum mausoleum with its repetitive arabic script.



Had to put myself in at least one photo.  That's me in Landscape Pose with camera bag on hip.



The impressive, if unfinished, front portal of Yassaui's mausoleum.  Still present are a number of the original timber supports jutting out from the building at regular intervals.  On the front face of the building you can see the grid pattern of small holes.



In the main portal you can see a mix of original and modern day supports and scaffolding.



The sides and back of the building are finished with tile mosaics in geometric designs consisting of arabic letters and sayings from the Qur'an.



















Each of the three finished faces of the mausoleum employs a different mosaic pattern and inscription.



This dome lies above his burial chamber within the mausoleum.







I loved the Escher-esque feeling to the back side of the portal, with its various stone stairways, doors, domes, and angles.



This was the only interior shot I was permitted to make.  This is the present day mosque inside the mausoleum.



These next three are from the inside of a Hamam that was built in the 1500's.  There are 5 domed chambers in all.



I have long been fascinated with domes and had the opportunity to work on the construction of 8 mud brick dome buildings of this same style while in the Peace Corps.  







This last shot is the ubiquitous Saturday afternoon wedding party.  In this case visiting the mausoleum for good luck.

I promise more about us here soon.  We are well and are loving our time with Nurai.  We have our court date set for Monday 23 November, not as early as we had hoped, but it will do.  Take Care.


17 comments:

Unknown said...

Oh happy day, I finally found/took time to log on the find out what has been happening. What a WONDERFUL surprise to meet Tougy's little sister Nurai!!!!! How very precious. I cannot express my feelings or emotions as to how happy I am for your fabulous family. Sooo good to see Tou Tou again tou ;-). Tou many things going on in my head to comment further, just know we here in Maine look forward to EVERYONE returning home. Cow waff waffs on the house for everyone!!!!
Love, John and Kenny

Regina said...

Utterly breathtaking!

Not too bad on your court date. May the time fly by.

Kelly and Sne said...

It's beautiful! What a fun piece of local culture you can take home for Nurai.

marsrob said...

INCREDIBLE PHOTOS AND GREAT! YAHOO!!! COURT DATE HERE YOU COME!!!

Jaimie, Gena and Berik said...

Wow these are truly awesome!! Thanks so much for sharing. Gena

Andrea said...

Oh wow, what a spectacular structure! Thank you for taking all of those pictures!

You aren't missing much here in New England. This weekend there is a Noreaster just south of us, so it's November business as usual here.

Thinking of you!
Andrea

Baby Kaz Moore said...

Wow, what incredible photos! Thank you for sharing them. I'm happy that you were able to see such an impressive and historical site.

Gretchen said...

Breathtaking shots! Wait that is what Regina said. Anyway it is still true. :)

Glad you have a court date. Sorry it isn't sooner but it isn't too far away.

Jstar said...

So lovely! When we take our pleasure trip to Kaz, we are definitely visiting.

Trudi said...

beautiful! I love that you ventured out...

The wedding party photo reminds me of our time in Moscow and all the couples who visit Red Square on their wedding day. Gorgeous.

Anonymous said...

fantastic photos! Makes me miss KZ.... Glad it is going well for you all!
A Riddell (another Maine-KZ mama)!

Karen, Glenn, Allie, Max, and Sam said...

Wow, what a beautiful place and a great history lesson (even if it is plagiarized from the guide book!). We love news of Tougy and Nurai but it is also great to read about the country. We are so impressed with your committment to getting out and about. Have a great week leading up to court!

Susan said...

i'VE MISSED your blog..but not enough battery life in the iphone to update facebook on the walk AND read your fabulous blog.

AMAZING PICS...and 2 weeks until court...i know you wanted it sooner, but what can you do?
mUCH LOVE!

John & Jenny Morgan said...

That's a beautiful structure, and your pictures are, as always, gorgeous!

Karen said...

The nosiacs are so detailed, no wonder the structure was never completed.

Michelle and Glenn said...

We are Glenn and Michelle, another Shykment family. We were in Shymkent this time last year and brought home Brandon to the US on Jan. 3. You have a beautiful family and we were excited to find your blog and follow your journey.

We would like to ask you a few questions about the baby hospital. Would you mind emailing us at m_gmarcus@bellsouth.net?

CamelsNDragons said...

I know you might be leaving soon but here are some more things to check out in Shymkent to pass the time. Before Ken Baba park on the right side is a candy shop "Taxat"
that have lovely yurt shaped candy tins with beautiful but mediocre chocolate inside. Makes a lovely jewelry box for a "Kaz princess".
Several blocks (still going away from the Mega Mall) up further on the same side of the street is a fantastic bookstore with lots of children's books in Kaz and Russian plus some nice cultural books in English.
If you go around the corner of the Mega Mall past the fountains the first business up some stone steps is a nice restaurant (if you can stand all the cigarette smoke)with an English menu. If you continue to the end of the block you will see the Turkish cafe where you can get free really good internet service if you bring you laptop and buy a snack or drink. You should be able to view your blog there.
If you go up the alley next to your apartment away from the bank you will pass the garbage dumpster and the phone company. The next apartment block has a small "convenience" store on the bottom floor with the really good traditonal Kazakh flatbread fresh for dirt cheap. Hard to find anywhere else but the bazarr as it sells out fast. If you end up staying have Farida get you a discount card at the Ramstore to cut your grocery bill. At the the end of the alley where it hits the next street is on the left an small business that sells amazing potato samsa at lunch and on the right another decent bookstore.
Beg and plead with that stubborn Zhenya to take you to the big bazarr where the "American" families go to buy traditional Kazakh baby cradles.(threaten to take the bus and he might cooperate) Shymkent is one of the few places where you can buy let alone see one of these beauties. They are fast disappearing from the culture. So worth it to get one in baby doll size for your daughters. They will break if you try to put them in your suitcase though. The Tsoom store on the mall in Almaty has the best souveniers in Kaz.
Be thankful for your "closet". Us American families summer 08 would have given anything for your privacy. Our babies never relaxed, our visits were shortened, and we could never just enjoy the bonding with the constant parade of medical staff through the gym.
FYI-Our daughter crawled for the first time in your apartment, the day she left the babyhouse. Zhenya smiled and laughed once for us when I mistook the unique infant waste disposal system for a bubble pipe at the bazarr. Regina and I met in Alamty as we were "exiting the country" Good luck and court really is a piece of cake. Lesley